CURLING-STRAIGHTENING AND SETTING OF HAIR
Perming is a chemical process of changing hair’s shape so the new style is retained through several washes. Perming lotions contain chemicals that cause some of the bonds within the protein fibres of the hair to break. The creams remain on the hair for the necessary development time, during which the desired number of bonds are broken. A new pattern is then imposed on the hair by winding it on rollers. The lotion is then rinsed off the hair, and a neutralizer is applied to enable the disrupted bonds to reform with a new pattern, giving the hair a unique shape.
Perming can be achieved either by a cold process or a hot cycle. In cold waving, thioglycollates break the bonds, while alkalis are used in hot waving. ‘Soft perms’ are also available for home use—they act in the same way but contain bisulphites which work more slowly and to a lesser extent—the result is a softer perm that does not last very long. Typically the professionally given perms should last until the treated hair grows out or is cut off.
What can go wrong with a perm?
Several factors combine to make the perm successful— the correct strength of the lotion, the curler size, the degree of tension with which the hair is wound around the curlers and the development time. Things can go wrong with any of these and spoil the perm.
You might not be satisfied with the style of the perm. The hair looks frizzy with small curlers and too much tension on the hair. Similarly, the curl becomes too tight in case of too long a development time; with a short development time and more giant curlers, the perm is loose.
Damage to the hair is another problem with perming; this occurs most often in the hair, already damaged by dyeing. Even in normal hair, too prolonged an application or too strong a lotion may cause damage because of weakening the bonds in the hair protein. The cuticular scales are also damaged during perming and may even be lost—this leaves areas of hair naked making it look lifeless. If sufficient damage has been caused to the hair, it may break immediately or within a few days of perming as you comb or brush your hair.
In rare cases, skin irritation can occur—this results from careless application of the lotion or if the cream is allowed to remain for too long in contact with the scalp. Given the problems your skin and hair will likely face, it is better to get your hair permed by an experienced beautician.
How often can I perm my hair?
This depends on the condition of your hair. Some damage occurs during perming, which is more so if the hair has been dyed earlier, and it is better to avoid re-perming your hair earlier than 4-5 months.
Can curly hair be straightened?
Yes, hair can be straightened just as it can be curled. This is done either by using chemicals or heat. The hair straightening is brought about by breaking the bonds and forming new ones, weakening the hair. Of the chemical methods, one technique uses a strong alkali, and the other involves a reducing agent. The former tends to have a more substantial effect.
SETTING YOUR HAIR
What are setting agents and hair sprays?
Setting agents keep the hair set long. They are applied to wash the hair before it is placed. A film of the agent is left on the hair, and as the hair dries, it is glued together, giving it a stiff and thick appearance. Hair sprays, on the other hand, hair sprays are used on hair that has been set. They keep hair in place.
Both setting agents and hair sprays have minimal chemical effects on the hair proteins. They both contain water-soluble polymers but in different formulations. Mechanically, they have two other products—they minimize the need to comb and reduce hair damage. Still, they make hair stiffer, making it difficult to search, thereby increasing the damage to the hair while combing. Both these opposing effects are generally balanced.
BLOW DRYING
Many of us use a ‘dryer’ for setting hair. Sometimes we use it to dry wet hair rapidly. Heat potentially damages the hair because it results in the loss of natural oils and moisture. Also, ‘heat treated’ hair is more prone to damage because heat weakens the hair protein. This is especially so if the hair is wet before heat drying.
It is best to avoid a dryer altogether, but if this is not possible, follow these precautions:
• Use the dryer when the hair is comparatively dry.
• Use a warm/relaxed setting on the dryer and keep moving it so that no one section of hair is subjected to heat for too long.
• Don’t hold the dryer too near your head.
• Direct the warm air along the direction of hair growth so that you are blowing flat on the scales of each hair shaft and not ruffling them up.